Climb Half Dome

Summary | Parking/Trailhead | Trail Description | Supplies | Itinerary

Half Dome	Back of Half Dome	Liberty Cap
Merced River in Little Yosemite	Trail Head Sign	Vernal Fall

Summary

The hike to the top of Half Dome from the valley floor is a 16.4 mile strenuous day hike with a 4,737 elevation gain up to 8,884 feet. Most of the trail that leads to Half Dome is the John Muir trail which starts at Happy Isles and leads all the way to the summit of Mt. Whitney 210 miles away. The distance is longer than it seem to be because the trail takes a large loop around to the opposite side of Half Dome (East Side) before the actual granite ascent begins.

If you can help it, this should not be your first hike of the season unless you are already in good shape and have strong knees. Although superior athletic ability is not required, anyone attempting this hike should be in generally sound physical condition with no chronic knee or foot problems.

Parking/Trailhead

Unfortunately you can't park near the trailhead on this hike. The closest you can get is the Curry Village parking lot. From here you can either walk to the trailhead (approximately 1 mile if you know the way) or take the free valley shuttle to the trailhead at Happy Isles. The shuttles stop on both sides of the street and you want to catch the shuttle closest to the parking lot which is on the east side of the street.

For most of the hiking season, the shuttles take you directly to Happy Isles to a shuttle stop right before a bridge. At the date of this writing, instead of walking through Happy Isles, walk across the road bridge and then take a right onto a wide trail that leads to the trailhead. This is necessary because the foot bridge from Happy Isles to the trailhead is closed due to a rock slide from Glacier Point that destabilized the bridge and destroyed a large portion of Happy Isles.

For the early and late parts of the hiking season, the shuttle only goes as far as the Pines Campgrounds (Upper and Lower). The shuttle then loops within the Upper Pines Campground and stops at a shuttle stop right outside the entrance to both the Upper and Lower Pines Campgrounds. This is as close as you get and is therefore your time to get off. Make your way to the trailhead via the road on the West side of Upper Pines or partially through the campground itself. I usually start through the campground and then find the road for the rest of the walk.

Trail Description

As your reward for choosing to climb Half Dome, the beginning of this trail takes you through the most popular short day hike in not just Yosemite Valley but in all of Yosemite.

Illilouette Fall: You immediately begin to gain elevation as you move deeper into the canyon where Happy Isles is located. The thick forest at the beginning only allows fleeting glimpses of the river below. At your first view, which is also a decent rest stop, you'll be able to admire the beautiful Illilouette Fall as it plunges 370 feet and joins with the river right below your feet. Straight across and almost straight up you find Glacier Point. Your last view of Yosemite Valley to your right (before you start to approach Half Dome) presents you with a partial glimpse of Yosemite Falls.

Vernal Fall Bridge: At 0.8 miles you reach the Vernal Fall Bridge that beholds a fantastic view of Vernal Fall at 320 feet high. Seen above Vernal Fall is Mt. Broderick to the left and Liberty Cap to the right. As you pass over the bridge, there is a water fountain that you can use to fill up your water bottles. Don't count on this water fountain to work because it is turned off for part of the season and don't ask me which part. You will also find a bathroom with all the amenities.

John Muir Switchbacks: Continuing up from the Vernal Fall Bridge about 200 yards you find that the John Muir trail heads off to the right with a collection of switchbacks that take you to the top of Nevada Fall. This is the way that we come down because it is not as steep and slippery as the trail we are about to go up. A little further up and off to the left there is another Vernal Fall view point that you need to do a little boulder hopping to get to. From this viewpoint, you not only get a closer view of Vernal Fall but the Mist Trail can also been seen to the right of the fall.

Mist Trail: The closer you get to the fall the more you realize why this is called the Mist Trail. Of course, if you go during the latter part of the Summer, you are likely feel no mist at all. Be careful as you climb the 200 odd very steep and sometimes slippery steps to the top of the fall.

Vernal Fall: Once you reach the top of Vernal Fall you are greeted by a fenced off area (poles actually) that keep you from getting to close to fall. Do not cross the fence! Several people a year die as they are swept over Yosemite Park's various water falls because they ignored posted safety signs and common sense. Off to the right of this area you find the Emerald Pool fed by the Silver Apron. If it isn't obvious, let me tell you here. This isn't a safe swimming area. And sliding down the apron can easily smash you into the boulders below the surface of the water. I know.

Clark Point: After Vernal Fall, the next major stop is Nevada Fall and you have two choices on how to get there. As you follow the trail away from the Emerald Pool you quickly come across a fork where you can head directly towards Nevada Fall (to the left) or towards Nevada Fall via Clark Point (to the right). In my opinion, if you have never gone either way than go left (I like to explore). If you have already gone left, then go right. After you've tried both, you'll notice that the trail to the right (although slightly longer) is much safer and easier as it avoids the steeps steps on the Nevada Fall Mist Trail.

Nevada Fall: If you travel via the Nevada Fall Mist Trail, a new log bathroom waits for you at the top. At this point, if you want to see the top of Nevada Fall before going on to Half Dome, take a right and travel about 200 yards. If you travel via Clark Point, you come across the John Muir Trail about 1/2 mile away from the fork. Make sure you follow the signs and go up (to the left). As you approach Nevada Fall you have a magnificent view Liberty Cap and the 594 foot drop of Nevada Fall.

Little Yosemite Valley: Leaving the top of Nevada Fall on the way to Half Dome the log bathroom previously mentioned is found. Directly after are a few brush switchbacks that take you over a short pass and down into Little Yosemite Valley. As soon as you enter the valley the trail splits to the right and left. The trail to the left (Half Dome Trail) is the most direct course to Half Dome. The trail to the right (continuation of John Muir Trail) will follow the river all the way to Merced Lake and the rest of the High Country. I recommend following the trail to the left. At the point where you begin your ascent out of Little Yosemite Valley towards the base of Half Dome there is another log bathroom visible (towards the river and the camp grounds) midway between the two trails . . . just in case.

Valley Overlook: Although the trail has been steep all the way at least it's been off and on. From here on the steepness doesn't stop. Before you reach the base of Half Dome an overlook of Yosemite Valley and the East side of Half Dome will demand your attention. This overlook is a few yards off the trail but is well worth the stop. From here your vista starts at Half Dome, reaches down across Yosemite Valley, and over to Snow Creek Trail and Snow Creek Valley. The base of Half Dome is about 1/4 further but don't worry, the trail doesn't get any easier.

Lightening Warning: At the base of Half Dome are lightening warnings telling the visitor that lightening can strike at any day of the year. Take this seriously. If there are storm clouds anywhere in the horizon, think twice about continuing and becoming part of the lightening rod made by the Half Dome cables.

Hump Ascent: The ascent up the back hump of Half Dome is the most treacherous part of the trail thus far. The trail here is narrow, steep, full of slippery gravel, and it's a long way down. Go slow, let faster hikers by, drink lots of water, and take plenty of rest stops. The more dehydrated and worn out you are, the more likely you are to make a fatal mistake.

Final Ascent: You're finally at the base of Half Dome and are ready to make the final ascent. To do this you need good pair of gloves. If you didn't bring any, a pile of used gloves can be found at the base of the cables. Even though questions of hygiene may arise, it's still better to have a pair of these gloves than none at all. For me, I take two pair of gloves; one for going up and one for coming down. The going up pair is rubberized on the palm (fishing gloves) that help me grip the cable tightly. The going down pair has Teflon palms that help protect from metal splinters (although rare) in the cable. If you are to have one pair, like most climbers, I suggest a comfortable pair of gloves with a good grip.

The Cables: There are two cables running up the back of Half Dome. These cables are elevated off the granite with metal poles every few yards. At the site of each of the metal poles is a piece of wood spanning the width of the cables. Standing on the wood is a much easier place to rest because they are more level than the granite mountain being climbed. Depending on the season, the cables will either be up or down. Before I climbed Half Dome with the cables down I had no idea what 'cables down' meant. For all I knew, the cables were taken down from Half Dome and removed completely. 'Cables down' means that the metal poles and wood I just described are removed. This means that the cables lie directly on the granite and are not elevated. This doesn't mean you can't climb Half Dome. It only means that it will be harder and more dangerous.

View from the Top: Welcome to the world of 360° views. From here you have a more than panoramic view of all the following: Glacier Point, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, Washington Column, Tenaya Canyon, North Dome, Basket Dome, Snow Creek Valley, Mt. Watkins, Mt. Hoffmann, Olmstead Point, Cloud's Rest, Sunrise Mountain, Mt. Caclure, Mt. Lyell, Mt. Florence, Little Yosemite Valley, Cascade Cliffs, Sentinel Dome, and the list goes on. I'll put this list in panoramic order the next time I go up. Anyone want to help?

Don't Throw: The top of Half Dome is completely baron of all life except for a periodic and industrious Marmot looking for handouts. There are places near the face of Half Dome where you can look straight down into Mirror Lake below. This is where you really need to restrain yourself from throwing anything over the side as mountain climbers are often ascending.

New Mindset: The way back down to the valley floor takes a different mindset. That of going slow enough not to slip and of getting back before dark. If you're well prepared with flashlights and and jackets, then you can definitely afford to go slow and stay alive. If you do end up using flashlights (a lot of people do) then remember to go slow and watch the trail right in front of you for rocks and cliffs.

Potty/Water Break: Upon reaching Little Yosemite Valley again a trail will lead the way you came and one will lead towards the bathrooms and a watering spot near the Merced River. This is a perfect chance to take care of business and to refill the water containers. When leaving the watering spot, take an immediate left on the John Muir trail. This leads back to the top of Nevada Fall a bit quicker than finding the Half Dome trail you just came off of.

Take the Safe Way: Upon reaching the bathroom at the top of Nevada Fall I recommend that you continue on over the fall. The trail leading down towards the top of Vernal Fall is too steep to travel down safely. By safely I mean that even if you do make it down without a serious fall, your knees might not be up to the strain. After passing Nevada Fall and coming to Clark Point, continue down via the John Muir trail and do not go to Vernal Fall. The same reasoning applies here as on the top of Nevada Fall.

Supplies

Use the standard Day Hike Checklist for this hike.

Itinerary

If we can help it, we'd like to start early enough to so that we can spend around an hour and a half at the top of Half Dome just kicking back and enjoying the view. The biggest scheduling danger on this trip is hiking down the trails after dark which very often pitch. This is also the reason that flashlights are MANDATORY!

Experience has proven that the following times are not exaggerated, especially when traveling with a group of individuals with varying physical abilities. Therefore, even though the return time is 8:00 pm, don't be surprised if you get home near midnight instead.

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